.If this is your first visit, be sure tocheck out the by clicking thelink above. You may have tobefore you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Ok guys, so here's the challenge for the day.I was sitting at a light two days ago, and I let up on the brake to drift a little forward and when I stepped back down on it to stop, the pedal went down with almost no pressure, I let up and stepped down again, and it had full pressure. And the warning light came on and I have 'Brake Failure' scrolling on the screen.I came home, turned it off and 3 hours later I went out to fire it up, still had the message there.
So tonight I went out, added a little brake fluid (it didn't really need any) I ran it around a little and it seems fine but I still have the message, so when I got back, I broke out the tools. Bled the brakes all around. Added more fluid. This did nothing.So then I got the great idea of pulling all the fuses and cycling the key on. In hopes of resetting something, that got me nowhere, so I disconnected the battery, and turned on the key trying to drain the power out of it.
Guess what?I still have the brake warning but now my clock is reset.Is there any way of resetting this warning light without having to take a 2 1/2 hour long trip to the dealer?Any ideas? Does anyone know how to clear this fault message, I have had it twice, the first time it cleared itself, this time it is still there.I have a ride of over 1400kms round trip to my nearest dealer, a long way to go just for an error message reset.It appears to come on if I release the park brake and apply the foot brake gently immediately after.I rang my 'local' dealer but he can't help, other than the long ride.Does anyone have a list of the Fault code meanings or know where I can find them.
I ahve a fault code of OC1282 and wondered what it was for?I live in Central Qld Australis so I am a long way from anywhere. Veeery innnnteresting!When I was doing the hand brake modification, that NEXUS devised, I of course read the Spyder shop manual section about the braking system, before I started the project. I began to understand some of what has also been posted in this thread about how it all works.Since I had to remove the whole brake pedal/foot peg assembly to drill out the mounting bosses I was afraid I might inadvertently trigger the LPS warning, if I forgot and turned on the ignition while I had the LPS switch unplugged. To avoid that possible senior moment, I took the key out of the slot and put it on my workbench.In the manual it says that the brake adjustment rod should be re-adjusted any time the brake pedal assembly is removed and then re-assembled. They have a special measuring fixture that has to be temporarily put in place of the whole master cylinder itself - what a hassle!
I definitely didn't want to deal with that, and I don't have the measuring fixture anyway.I decided that since there is not a lot of clearance (read slop) in any of the assembly mounting holes, my safest bet would be to not disturb the rod adjusting nuts (doesn't have to be loosened to remove the pedal assembly) and everything would go back in place where it was originally. It seems to have worked out OK that way.BTW - In the manual it tells how to reset the error message, just as it has been described here in this thread. HOWEVER, it then goes on to say that it has to be hooked up to the BUDS, after that reset procedure, and something checked again. I don't remember exactly what it says to do then.It is beginning to be a great pleasure now, when I have to work on one of my antique British bikes, after this sort of thing on my Spyder. Wow, on those I don't even have to remove any panels - it's all out there.
Isn't that funny. IT WORKED!Got rid of my warning message last night, saved me a dealer trip!Same thing happened to me.The brake pressure went down, then back up,and the brake failure came on. After reading the reset fix, I topped my brake fluid off and tried the reset steps and It Worked! Brake failure light went away! I have a Rt 2011 SM5.
Must be a common thing with the earlier year models. Im so glad I checked on here first for a fix. You guys are awesome! Saved me a trip to the dealer and God only knows what they would have told me to get my money. Haven’t been on for a long, long time due to wife’s illness. So, Spyder has been neglected just sitting in the garage. Well, being her primary caregiver for the last few years has the Doctor demanding I go do something away from the house for a couple of days for my health.
Well, after ignoring his advise for too long, as I don’t like leaving her, I decided maybe a ride would be good. So, I got my 2008 washed and waxed and started her up and that anoying “Brake Failure” scrolling started. I had tried everythig 2 or 3 years ago when this started, but nothing would eliminate it.
So, I decided to go on Spyder Lovers and see if anybody had come up with a fix for this. All I could find was this posted back in 2008.LPS FAULT CODE(Braking sytem)-Put ignition switch at OFF-Wait 30 seconds.-Turn ignition switch to ON-Press firmly on brake pedal until you ear a clic from LPS switch or that you get 3500 kpa in system.P.S.: You will first hear the brake light switch. Continue to put more pressure until you hear a second clic that will come from the LPS.It looked like a joke to me and figured somebody was laughing everytime they thought about posting this. But, I tried it anyway. And guess what?
This is similar to post #5, but with a little more detail.If you do not have any codes, but still have a brake warning, it is possible the low pressure switch has been activated. There are three switches in the brake circuit. Brake light switch, 2. Hydraulic pressure switch, and 3. Low pressure switch (this is really a limit switch that just senses the pedal has traveled too far). This can be reset by the following procedure.After a low pressure switch (LPS) problem hasbeen solved, it is necessary to clear the occurredfault in the VCM as fo llows:1.
Turn ignition switch OFF.2. Wait 30 seconds.3. Turn ignition switch ON.rmr2011-0864. Firmly press brake pedal until you hear a 'click'from the LPS sw itch or until braking pressurereaches 3 500 kPa (508 PSI).NOTE: The 1st click will come from the brake lightswitch. Continue to strongly press pedal to heara 2 nd click. This one will come from the low pressureswitch.
You may not hear the click, just push the pedal real hard.NOTE: Use B.U.D.S. To monitor brake pressure ifdesired.5. Turn ignition switch OFF.6.
Wait 30 seconds.7. Turn ignition switch ON.8. Army men strike complete list of officers 2017. Validate fault was cleared.
BRP Power Interface unit. BRP strongly recommends the use of the power interface and power supply cables to stabilize the unit voltage when using BUDS & BUDS2 during software updates.
The power interface and power supply cable allows the connection of a fully charged external battery to provide stable voltage to the unit and BUDS / BUDS2. Stable voltage is essential to prevent update crashes. The power interface and power supply cable connected to external battery can be used for extended diagnostic time. The power interface with or without the power supply cable will keep the unit powered even if the ignition switch is turned off or the DESS key is removed. The power interface has a fuse protected voltmeter included and an extra fuse to protect from polarity inversion of the power supply cable.
It's neccasery for BRP vehicles without battery (electric starter). LIMITED OFFER!!!!.YOU WILL RECEIVE LICENSE FOR B.U.D.S. And FREE LICENSE FOR NEW BRP B.U.D.S.2 SOFTWARE (for diagnose BRP Vehicles from 2016 and up)This genuine BRP Diagnostic Kit for 4-TEC / E-TEC works on all SeaDoo PWC, Sport Boats, SkiDoo and Lynx snow mobiles and all Can Am ATV, SSV, Roadster Spyder. Diagnostic Kit includes:.
BRP MPI-3 Interface (main unit, is used for diagnosis of all BRP vehicles). Diagnostic Cable (for connection of MPI-3 Interface to 4-TEC/E-TEC vehicles.
Can Am Diagnostic Software
BRP Powerinterface unit (optional). BRP 4-Tec desspost unit (optional). BRP B.U.D.S. Diagnostic software (supports BRP vehicle till 2016).
BRP B.U.D.S.2 Diagnostic software (supports BRP vehicle from 2016 and up). Unlimited updates via downloadable web site,. License for B.U.D.S.
I finally got another free evening to devote to reverse engineering the Can-Am Spyder diagnostic interface. For the back story,. But things did not quite work out like I hoped for tonight’s Spyder hacking. As usual, it is the hardware guy’s fault.First order of business was to build another cable to connect the CAN lines from the Android Open Accessory kit to the Spyder itself since the Spyder to OBDII effort did not yield anything useful. The AOA board has footprints for both a DSUB-9 and an RJ45 but I used the DSUB connector because I could not find RJ-45 connectors in the lab without magnetics.Based on the two schematic snippets, I fabricated a simple 3 wire cable connecting Pin 2 to Pin 2 (Can Low), pin 3 to pin 3 (Ground), and DSUB pin 7 to Deutsch pin 1 (CAN High).
Spyder Deutsch 6 pin diagnostic connector pin outThe cable was pretty straightforward to fabricate thanks to the high quality. I should have chosen pins for smaller gauge wire but I made these work. See the pictures below for useful tips.
Can Am Spyder Code Reader
Pry the orange weather boots out of the backside of the connectors and thread your wires through the boot before locking them into the housing. The boot makes a convenient way to hold them steady while you beep out the pinout one last time (had to be careful, no pin extraction tool available if I messed up).
After the pins lock in place with a satisfying click, the green wedge piece inserts from the front to lock everything in place. Weather boot fully inserted in finished cable top and not fully inserted bottomCable fabrication went smoothly but I was denied the quick and easy path to testing the new cable. The AOA board has an embedded that the sample projects use as a console output.
I had tested the console output and it worked fine on the lightweight web server example. I was hoping to do some simple exploration of baud rate and message count using the time honored. But it appears that something in the code for the provided examples conflicts with the serial console and they refuse to load, debug, or execute when a USB cable is connected to the 232R. It is odd, maybe a power budget issue but I can have a working CAN demo session connected when I connect a USB cable to the FT232R. Connecting the cable is fine but as soon as I open the port, the CAN connection in the demo drops.
And it returns immediately when I close the session.So this Spyder diagnostic hacking session is over. Now I either spend time figuring out the serial console, log all data to internal SD via the FAT FS library, or develop an Android GUI. The Android GUI option is probably the best way to go long term, better bandwidth and faster dev cycle but it will be a steeper initial learning curve. Oh well, I wanted to get better at Android development anyway and this will probably make for an interesting part 3.Update: After looking at the schematics, I figured out how to enable the serial terminal without disrupting the CAN communications. The two jumpers on JP4 are installed by default. Remove them and you can open the port without triggering a reset of the processor. Spyder Diagnostic Hacking is back on, I can at least figure out the now.This was a continuation of a previous post.
Safety Ratings.NHTSA’s 5-Star Safety Ratings help consumers compare vehicle safety when searching for a car. More stars mean safer cars.Combines Driver and Passenger star ratings into a single frontal rating. The frontal barrier test simulates a head-on collision between two similar vehicles, each moving at 35 mph.Combines Side Barrier and Side Pole Star Ratings into a single side rating.Combines the Side Barrier Driver and the Side Pole Star Ratings into a Front Seat rating. The Rear Seat rating is derived from the Side Barrier Rear Passenger rating.The Side Barrier test simulates an intersection collision between a standing vehicle and moving barrier at 38.5 mph.The Side Pole Barrier test simulates a crash into a fixed object like a tree or utility pole.The Rollover Resistance test measures the risk of rollover in a single-vehicle, loss-of-control scenario.
Recalls & Safety Issues.This is a record of safety issues for vehicles of this year, make, model and trim. If you are a vehicle owner, search for recalls by your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). The vehicle identification number tells you if your car is affected.Have a safety problem?Report a problem with your vehicle, tires, car seats or other equipment. We review every problem as we work to keep our roads safe.Find recallsby VIN.Every vehicle has a unique VIN. Enter a VIN to learn if a specific vehicle needs to be repaired as part of a recall.
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