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Official World Golf RankingsThru May 13th, 2019 #+/-PlayerPtsCtry1Dustin Johnson9.752Justin Rose9.013Brooks Koepka8.834Rory McIlroy8.105Justin Thomas7.586Tiger Woods7.467Francesco Molinari7.178Bryson DeChambeau6.829Xander Schauffele6.1310Rickie Fowler5.83Want to post a video of your swing and get some feedback but have questions about shooting the video?Need advice on club purchases?Write a course review.Got a photo you took on your phone of a swing with a mad crazy shaft flex?It's due to and there's no need to share it with us. Other Golf Links. Can anyone explain the differences between the two balls and how that will impact me on the course?TLDR courtesy ofPosted 05 April 2018 - 05:43 PMGuys, the Ksig3 (Kirkland Performance+ 3 piece urethane) spins!!I just hit 5 50ish yard pitches with 5 different balls (removing any outliers or fat shots) on my GC2 launch monitor. The club was a Cleveland 58 (a bit worn). I then pulled out the lowest spinning of each just to be sure I didn't have any outliers. The averages of the 4 remaining shots for each ball are below. I repeated the Zstar twice to see if my numbers were similar as a validation.See attached.The Ksig3 spun more than the Z-star and definitely outspun the Q-star Tour, which I had tested before and noticed the spin was down vs the Z-star, ProV1x, etc.
The Ksig3 is softer than the Ksig4 and comparable to the Z-star 2017 version.I have the Ksig4 as well, but it is firmer than I like. I may test it as well just to see. UPDATE: Ksig4 comes in at 6196 RPM.UPDATE:7-iron (165-170 yds avg) spin for the Ksig3 was higher by about 800 RPM than zstar and ksig4.
I have a question for all you bloggers out there today. I would like your opinion as to the strengths and weaknesses of having a 2 piece fly rod versus a 4 piece design, all other things equal. Improved pack ability is definitely a plus in a 4 piece design. Rod that only breaks down into two pieces means the tube will be 4.5 ft. So do fishermen find improved performance in a 2 piece rod as opposed to a 4 piece?
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Or do fly rod companies only make the 2 piece, rods because they are slightly cheaper to manufacture? Said.The thought is that anytime there is a break in the rod blank, you dampen sensitivity to the hand. Since trout can be delicate eaters, that can be a pretty significant factor when it comes to detecting bites.That said, I own a few 2-piece fly rods, as well as a 7-piece travel fly rod.My simple advice if you are considering a purchase of one over the other, take your budget into account.If you are going to buy a rod that's less than $300, it really doesn't matter. If 4-pc is more convenient for where you want to take the rod to go fishing, go that route. If you're going to budget $500+ on a rod, go with the 2-piece. If you're going to spend that much, you might as well get the best of breed experience.That's my two cents.
Said.I have to aggree with Troutrageous, on the budget.As for the rest.These days it doesnt matter, as far as how it casts and the sensitivity.How ever it matters to the angler a great deal. Some feel each joint is a loss of action or a weak spot, All of my reasearch and experience shows that with advances in technology, and robot tested, a two piece will fish just like a four. They have this stuff figured out pretty well, or we would be making our own rods and tying bugs. It doesn't matter. And thats my two.I have to add that I really respect the questions you ask around here.A Math teacher told back in high school, 'There are no, dumb questins, just dumb asses not willing to ask questions'Bottom line Bill we all learn a little from the things you post. Said.BigerrfishI agree the 4 pc and the 2 pc now days are perfected to the point that the angler is the only one that can tell the difference.
I have talk to individuals who say that there seems to be stiffness at the ferrule connections in the 4 pc rods. This may be the case in your lower end rods. Again I would have to say it is the anglers own personal choice. I do tend to lean towards the 2 pc not because of the packing capability, but because I just seem to get a better feel.
If I am going to travel some distance then my 4 pc. Makes more sense.Thanks for the comment about the question. I feel that this blog is not only a sharing experience but a learning experience for me and others. It is bloggers like yourself that I have learned from since I joined the blog circuit.
Thanks for the advice and comment. Said.In fly rods, have 2 pc rods, 4 pc rods, and 5 pc rods.I personally haven't found much difference in feel/sensitivity due to the number of rod sections.
In fact, the 5 pc rods probably have the best feel to them.Its a different story with spinning rods, especially when vertical jigging. But with fly rods and the style of fly fishing I do most, I usually detect the take visually via movement of my line, rather than feeling it in the rod.Therefore, if given a choice, I will go with a 4pc rod, since it is often very nice to have a rod that packs small. Said.If I could catch all the fishes I wanted without having to fly anywhere, I would only own two piece rods. My husband and I build all our rods, and in the building, you can tell what you lose by having multiple pieces.Unfortunately, 9/11's fall-out makes traveling with a two piece rod a hassle, so most of my rods are four piece rods.
However, when I am working on attempting to set an IGFA record, I put up with the hassle and take my two piece rod; it's just that much more sensitive. Do a side-by-side casting comparison in each of the flexes, and you will see a noticeable difference. I love my two-piece until I have to travel. Said.I currently use a Cabelas Stowaway 6 as my go to rod, over a $500+ Sage, yes a Cabelas and believe me I never though I'd ever even own a Cabelas rod. I don't care as much for the Stoway 7 or 5, they are good and have better reel seats, but the 6 is a superb rod.
My observation at this point is that the rod blank and construction quality is so good, that it doesn't really matter how many pieces it is. Multi piece rods are far easier to transport. And seriously, we all get a little too picky sometimes when it comes to nitpicking about a rod. At this point I would rather have 3 - $150 rods than a single $500+ rod and I've played with very high end rods from most good brands. Said.I fish with both 2 piece and 4 piece fly rods. There is a casting technique I use when casting against the wind that will not work with the 4 piece rod: the velocity of the forward stroke is increased and carried lower. With a two piece rod I feel an extra power surge between 10 and 9 o'clock that shoots the line forward, lower to the water and straight line thereby over coming the wind resistance.
With a 4 piece rod I cannot get that last surge I've described. I contribute this difference to the 4 pieces top two sections not flexing in the same manner my two piece rods do.
Surely you’ve heard this before: your golf ball is the only piece of equipment you use on every stroke. Shouldn’t it be the most well thought out piece of equipment you put in play then? It’s amazing how often the golf ball is over looked. Everyone wants to run out and demo the new driver hitting the market that promises to add 10+ yards off the tee.
However, it’s rare for golfers to demo a variety of different golf balls that will most likely improve their games immediately.The main difference between golf balls at the lower and higher price points has to do with the materials in the cover of the ball. Cheaper balls typically have a surlyn ionomer cover- basically a plastic with very elastic properties. These plastics have some great qualities, like their durability. Balls with ionomer covers will typically last significantly longer and be less susceptible to scuff marks than the higher end balls. So if price is a big deciding factor for you, an ionomer cover ball will typically be cheaper and last much longer.Balls at higher price points generally have a urethane cover. This is a rubber that’s very similar to skateboard wheels, and is much softer than it’s ionomer counterpart.
Urethane will really grip with the grooves of your club face and generate a lot more spin. However, because the material is much softer the ball will scuff and mark much easier (you can even cut the cover of the ball if you have relatively fresh grooves in your wedges). You’ll go through these balls a lot quicker, and they’re more expensive to replace.Additional characteristics of golf balls are the number of layers, or pieces, that make up the ball. A two-piece ball is simply a rubber core surrounded by a cover (the layer with the dimples), but there are 3, 4, even 5 piece balls on the market today.
The separate layers typically have different density characteristics with the firmest material at the center. As a general rule of thumb, the faster your clubhead speed, the more layers in your ball you’ll want.From a playability standpoint, the key differences between ionomer and urethane covered golf balls is the spin the ball generates and the trajectory in which it flies. Softer urethane balls will spin more and fly lower while ionomer balls will spin less and fly higher.Many of you are probably reading this thinking you want to spin the ball back with your wedges like the pros, so the urethane cover is for you. Keep in mind that these balls will also generate significant side spin as well, so if your fighting a hook or a slice, these balls will simply exaggerate it.We recommend that higher handicap players select a harder ball with an ionomer cover to reduce sidespin and promote a straighter flight, while low handicappers select a softer ball with multiple layers and an urethane cover to promote workability and shot-control.Test out a few different brands and models and weigh all factors. Play a couple rounds with different balls to see which one you prefer, and then stick to it to develop consistency.
Pros put countless hours into selecting the right ball for for their games. Take that same approach to selecting your proper ball, and watch scores steadily.
The best I've ever heard this answer explained is in the Feb. 2008 Golf Magazine dedicated to finding the right ball.' It's more important for the average player to pick the right ball than it is for the better player. Most mid-higher handicappers choose hard, inexpensive, low-spinning balls that rob them of enough lift to overcome drag. This cost them distance. Then, when they fail to reach the green in regulation, they have to chip and putt with the most difficult products on the market to control around the green' - Mitch Voges, founder, MaxOut Golf and co founder, golfballselector.com.
Surely you’ve heard this before: your golf ball is the only piece of equipment you use on every stroke. Shouldn’t it be the most well thought out piece of equipment you put in play then? It’s amazing how often the golf ball is over looked. Everyone wants to run out and demo the new driver hitting the market that promises to add 10+ yards off the tee. However, it’s rare for golfers to demo a variety of different golf balls that will most likely improve their games immediately.The main difference between golf balls at the lower and higher price points has to do with the materials in the cover of the ball. Cheaper balls typically have a surlyn ionomer cover- basically a plastic with very elastic properties. These plastics have some great qualities, like their durability.
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Balls with ionomer covers will typically last significantly longer and be less susceptible to scuff marks than the higher end balls. So if price is a big deciding factor for you, an ionomer cover ball will typically be cheaper and last much longer.Balls at higher price points generally have a urethane cover.
1 Piece Guitar Neck
This is a rubber that’s very similar to skateboard wheels, and is much softer than it’s ionomer counterpart. Urethane will really grip with the grooves of your club face and generate a lot more spin. However, because the material is much softer the ball will scuff and mark much easier (you can even cut the cover of the ball if you have relatively fresh grooves in your wedges). You’ll go through these balls a lot quicker, and they’re more expensive to replace.Additional characteristics of golf balls are the number of layers, or pieces, that make up the ball. A two-piece ball is simply a rubber core surrounded by a cover (the layer with the dimples), but there are 3, 4, even 5 piece balls on the market today. The separate layers typically have different density characteristics with the firmest material at the center. As a general rule of thumb, the faster your clubhead speed, the more layers in your ball you’ll want.From a playability standpoint, the key differences between ionomer and urethane covered golf balls is the spin the ball generates and the trajectory in which it flies.
Softer urethane balls will spin more and fly lower while ionomer balls will spin less and fly higher.Many of you are probably reading this thinking you want to spin the ball back with your wedges like the pros, so the urethane cover is for you. Keep in mind that these balls will also generate significant side spin as well, so if your fighting a hook or a slice, these balls will simply exaggerate it.We recommend that higher handicap players select a harder ball with an ionomer cover to reduce sidespin and promote a straighter flight, while low handicappers select a softer ball with multiple layers and an urethane cover to promote workability and shot-control.Test out a few different brands and models and weigh all factors. Play a couple rounds with different balls to see which one you prefer, and then stick to it to develop consistency. Pros put countless hours into selecting the right ball for for their games. Take that same approach to selecting your proper ball, and watch scores steadily.
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